Why Your Shrubs Didn’t Flower

Are you wondering why your shrubs didn’t have many flowers or any at all? Here are a handful of reasons why this can happen and some solutions to consider.

• Flower buds were pruned/sheared off last season. Many shrubs such as Lilac, Rhododendron and Azalea flower on previous season’s wood so if they are pruned in the months after their flower buds have set, there will be no/fewer flowers the following season. Prune immediately after flowers pass.
• Not enough sun. Even plants that survive in the shade may not flower as well as the same plant in a sunny spot. Prune or thin over hanging trees or transplant to a better spot.
• Buds have been frozen by a late freeze. which is often the case with Hydrangea. There are hardier Hydrangea species to choose from and some cultivars will even repeat bloom.
• Not adequate soil nutrition. Fertilize and add compost to improve soil conditions.
• Lack of vigor/energy. Usually this happens in shrubs that are very old and overgrown. A hard rejuvenation prune in spring can stimulate new growth and fresh start. Keep in mind that it most likely won’t flower during the first year of this new growth.
• Species has less showy or noticeable flowers than you would have thought. Remember some trees and shrubs have separate male and female flowers. Look closely.
• Has pests attacking it. Your shrub may be prioritizing its energy reserves to staying alive, thus sacrificing flower development.
• It can depend on the weather. The duration and harshness of each season will yield brighter or duller, numerous or fewer blooms.

When to Trim Trees and Shrubs (Part 2 of 2)

Deciding when to prune/trim is confusing to many people because there is no one-size-fits-all answer and even the experts can’t always agree. Yet, it is the most commonly asked question of gardeners, landscapers and arborists! Pruning of live branches is not as critical as many people think, but it is worthy of discussion.

The Best Times for Pruning: (the opposite of Part 1; Worst Times)

• A mild, dry and seasonal day
• When the plant is healthy and hasn’t recently been disturbed by construction, storms and/or heavy pruning
• It depends on how much you plan to cut off;
  A Heavy Trim >50% cutbacks of shrubs, the best time is late winter, early spring
  A Medium Trim ~25% maximum amount to remove annually, early spring and summer
  A Light Trim <15% anytime of season
• It also depends on whether or not you will miss the full flower effect;
  If you won’t miss some of the blooms, prune anytime of season
  For plants that bloom on current season growth, in late winter, early spring
  For plants that bloom on previous season growth, right after bloom
• Lastly, Dead branches can be pruned anytime!

In general, the optimal times for ornamental tree and shrub trimming is early spring and summer and those should be the go-to times if you are unsure. Don’t let timing keep you from grabbing your pruners if a haircut is truly needed and you just can’t wait!

When to Trim Trees and Shrubs (Part 1 of 2)

If you are trying to figure out the best time to prune/trim, start first with the worst times to prune (because more experts agree on these) and work backwards from there.

So, what are the worst case scenarios in pruning at the ‘wrong time’?

• Loss of flowers/fruit
• Health decline/injury
• Death

One important point is that pruning at the “wrong” time of year probably won’t kill your tree or shrub, but it may weaken it in the long run. Indeed many plants are trimmed at less than ideal times and yet they survive.

The Worst Times for Pruning:

• In the rain. Many bacterial and fungal diseases are spread during cold or hot wet weather and fresh cuts make easy access.
• During a severe drought, or flood like conditions. Energy is precious at these times and taking off branches is adding additional stress.
• When current or upcoming temperatures are extreme. Fresh cuts are open, exposed living cell tissue that can dry out or freeze and the wood surrounding the cut can dieback.
• When your tree or shrub is unhealthy. Wait for it to recover by giving it time and treatment (if necessary) before pruning.
• After storm damage, root injury (like construction) or heavy pruning. Plants need time to recover from loss of branches and roots before any trimming is done.
• Right before bloom. Does this really need explaining? Well, OK, maybe flowers and fruit aren’t your first priority.

To be continued in When To Trim, Part 2.

Do Trees Need Cold Winter Temperatures?

People always think of harsh winters causing damage to woody plants but could anything problematic come from a mild winter? Hardy, temperate trees and shrubs are adapted to survive for up to several hundred years over many different winter intensities. If temperatures hold steady above and/or around freezing and gradually change, there may be no effects at all. However, when we get warm temperatures, greater than 50°F and/or fluctuations from very low to very high and vise versa in a short period of time, there can be problems.

High Temps in Winter, like we had in December, causes some plants to prematurely ‘wake up’ from dormancy and pop out spring flowers. There are some consequences for that come spring such as a later, longer and uneven flower display, reduced energy for growth, resisting pests and adverse environmental conditions (such as drought). This also can affect fruit trees that require adequate chilling hours like apples and pears, resulting in less, smaller, and/or misshapen fruits. Lastly, some pests are suppressed by the cold and without low enough temperatures, they have more opportunity to be active.

Wide, Rapid Fluctuations in temperature don’t allow enough time for plants to re-enter dormancy from which they can endure harsh winter conditions. This abruptness can result in stem cracking, sun scald and twig and bud death from starting to grow during a warm period and then quickly freezing.